Outrigging Brace and Frame Cap: Use the 4th set of 2 pieces of wood for the outrigging braces and the 5th set of 2 pieces of wood for the frame caps.ĭiagram 17: frame cap and outrigging brace drawing.ĭiagram 18: frame cap and outrigging brace measurementsīeam Brace: Use the 7th set of 2 pieces of wood to measure as follows: Hangers: Use the 6th set of two wooden pieces and drill two holes in each end of 3/8 in, 1 in from the ends. Outrigging: Use the first set of 2 wooden pieces, creating two notches at each end.ĭiagram 13: outrigging drawing with notches. Outrigging Beam: Use the only single wooden piece and create 2 notches, sloped, as follows:ĭiagram 10: outrigging beam measurements.Ĭrossing Beams: Use the second set of 2 pieces of wood, creating 2 x 9″ notches, angles, tilting inwards in the direction of the axle. Trough: Use the molding, and staple each piece of Velcro at each end, leaving half the Velcro pieces extending beyond the ends, lengthwise. Follow the diagrams below to make the necessary cuts and measurements:ĭiagram 5: the long beam cuts as they should appear. Long Beam: Use the third set of 2 pieces of wood for this. Create 2 using the remaining first 4 pieces of wood. Or, see the following diagrams:ĭrawing 3: examples of leg 1, both sides.ĭiagram 4: measurements for cutting and angles for corner leg 1.Ĭorner Leg 2: Copy the procedures for corner leg 1, creating a mirror image. Mark 1 line, ¾ in away to connect those marks. Mark a measurement of 64.2, ¾ in from edges. This is only one leg, but cuts are made on both sides. Make two of these only.ĭiagram 1: adapted version of measurements for main beam.Ĭorner Leg: Use one of the first 4 wooden pieces. The first is located 1 in from the thickest end and the second is 10 in from that hole, heading towards the thinnest end. Drill two holes with the 3/8 in bit, perpendicular to the beam to carry the axles. Main Beam: Create a taper measuring 13.5 in from end 1 to 0.25 in at center, ending with a 0.5 in at other end.
Electric drill, 3/8 in bit, 1/16 in bitĮach section is given a name, according to the original names designated to each piece historically.The final lengths of the ½ in x ¾ in pieces should equal 30 ft 3.5 in.Ĭut the board into ½ in pieces as follows: Cut the sixth 2 pieces of wood to lengths of 14 in.Cut the fifth 2 pieces of wood to lengths of 4 in.Cut the fourth 2 pieces of wood to lengths of 11 in.Cut the third 2 pieces of wood to lengths of 34 in.Cut the first 1 piece of wood to a length of 31 in.Cut the second 2 pieces of wood to lengths of 10.5 in.Cut the first 2 pieces of wood to lengths of 24.75 in.Cut the first 4 pieces of wood to lengths of 34 in.Cut the second steel rod into 3 pieces, measuring 3.5 in, 6.5 in and 7 in.Cut the first steel rod into 2 pieces, measuring 3 in and 2 in only.1 x 6 in x 8ft x ¾ in wooden board without knots.2 pieces pole style wood ¾ in diameter x 1.58in.¼ in round x 22 in x 1.17 in wooden molding.1 ball of very strong brown twine, not packing variety.1 x 24.5 oz can (baked bean can is okay).2 steel pipes, 1.58 in x ½ in diameter, with slip fit to go over the primary axle of 3/8 in.Below I’ve got an excellent video explaining the science behind them and how they work: The following information will give you complete instructions regarding the materials needed, other materials (optional), joining procedures, line drawings with dimensions, making the pouch, and how to put it all together. Now, precisely what I’m going to give you instructions on how to build is a working model of the famous French trebuchet and is based on the principles of the hinged counter-style weighted trebuchet. These instructions will tell you how to construct a small to medium sized French counterweight trebuchet in your own backyard it should be roughly capable of slinging a baseball, tennis ball, full beer can, or similar such projectile 50-100 yards with ease!
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